Super Pinky Bright Red Lens Review

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Because I buy a lot of coloured contact lenses for cosplay and I always like to see reviews of others, I’ll review the contact lenses that I buy. I’ll post pictures, and a detailed opinion. I bought mine at Honeycolor.com. Shipping is always well done, and the package arrives in a reasonable time (one – two weeks). I’m very happy with their service. I always order one contact lens at -2 and one at -4. I can always see well through them.

Name: Bright Red
Price: $25,90
Brand: Super Pinky
Frequency: Yearly
Material: PolyHema
Base Curve: 8.6mm
Diameter: 14.8mm
Water Content: 45%
Available at: https://www.honeycolor.com/super-pinky-bright-red

Stock image:
super-pinky-bright-red-12-stock

Colour:
The colour of these contacts is very bright, very beautiful. Even though they’re red, the design makes them look very natural. I’m very happy with these!

Coverage:
They cover my brown eyes perfectly. The diameter is very large as well, looks great!

Comfort:
As any other contact lens: no discomfort. I could wear them all day like I would my normal non-coloured contact lenses.

Comparison picture:
super-pinky-bright-red-12

Music release Teru no Uta

So I have debuted as a musical artist as well! I am now officially a singer with HAF Records. I am currently working on more Anime cover songs, but the first one is already out on CD! It is Teru no Uta from the movie Gedo Senki / Tales from Earthsea, from Ghibli studio. 😀

You can find it here! On
HAF Compilation Album #15 ~HANEDA INTERNATIONAL ANIME MUSIC FESTIVAL Presents~

https://www.amazon.co.jp/gp/product/B01M59100Y/ref=dm_ws_sp_ps_dp

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Pattern review McCall’s M7054

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Because I’m using a lot of patterns for Cosplay (and normal clothes) I will write my opinion on patterns that are for sale by pattern companies on my blog. I buy my patterns from Naaipatronen.nl, or in sewing stores in the Netherlands. I usually make US size 10/12, or European size 38. My sizes are the following (for size comparison): Height: 172 cm (5’7″), Bust 91 cm (34 inch), Waist 72 cm (27 inch), Hips 105 cm (42 inch).
Pattern company: McCall’s

Pattern number: 7054

Pattern description: Skirt in different variations
View made: View C
Recommended size by pattern: Size 14
Size made: Size 12
Pattern photo:

Instructions:

The instructions were super easy. It has very few steps and are easy to follow. Just sew all panels together, put a zipper between the two back panels, make a lining and finish the edges. Because I omitted the lining all together, it was even easier.


Pattern quality:

The pattern quality is very good. All pieces fit together well, and with the high-low skirt that I made, it’s very hard to make a mistake. 

Pattern sizing:

The sizing is fine, as long as you make a size smaller than they recommend. It’s the usual with patterns. However, I did take in 12 cm on either side of my waist, but left the skirt the same size at the hips. It was kind of what I was afraid of when I bought this pattern, the fit is great for my hips, but my waist is a lot smaller so the shape doesn’t fit. It’s not made for extreme hourglass figures like mine, but for people with a different shape it will probably be just fine. In any case, the seams are easy to take in.


My own alterations:

I left out the lining as well as the hook and eye, and I took in the side seams to have a better fit at my waist.


Fabric used:

95% cotton, 5% elastan. 


Conclusion:

Good pattern, pretty skirt, it’s just a little bit of work to make the sizing fit correctly. 


Photo of my finished garment:

Dark lines in faux leather Tutorial

Introduction

I know that sounds oddly specific. For my Arshtat cosplay I created dark embellished lines in my front-ornament. It was made out of fake leather covering a thin craft foam. I wanted the lines to have relief, and be dark. So this was the perfect way. Although it is very unforgiving. You cannot make mistakes! Gladly I made none. 😉

Below a photo of one of my cosplays I used a lot of paint on. Photo is by RE:PLICA’s MikoBura.

arshtatmikobura

 

How to make these lines:

Make sure that your piece is finished before you start. Draw pencil lines on your fake leather so you can see where you have to trace. Then: heat up a kitchen knife using a flame (candle or stove) and make a little test on a fake-leather covered piece of foam that is not your final piece. When you’re confident everything will go well you can start tracing. Be slow, be careful, and heat up your knife in between when it gets too cold. Make sure you have a bucket of water next to you so you can save yourself and your home when something goes wrong. Good luck! 😀

Fabric Painting Cosplay Tutorial

Introduction

Because many fantasy and anime characters have beautiful designs on their clothes, a painting tutorial comes in handy. I love painting and I am good at it, but don’t worry if it isn’t as clean and neat as I do, the first time you try. Good painting takes practice!

What you need is fabric paint that you can apply with a brush. You usually have to iron it afterwards to fix it onto the fabric. This kind of fabric can easily be mixed to the right colour, although I prefer to just take the colour right out of the bottle. Make sure to choose the right paint for your colour fabric. On the bottle it says: for light or for dark fabrics. Pay attention to this!

Below a photo of one of my cosplays I used a lot of paint on. Photo is by RE:PLICA’s MikoBura.

arshtatmikobura

Step 1: Creating the pattern and fabric pieces

First of all you need to create a pattern for your clothes. I will discuss the red skirt of my Arshtat cosplay here. It has a symmetrical image on both sides. In this step I cut out the paper pattern-piece and sketched the shape of the pattern that has to be painted on top of the pattern-piece. I created a test-skirt, and then went on to cut out the actual pattern pieces for the skirt.

 

Step 2: Creating a painting template

Make the template out of a thick paper or cardboard so you can use it to trace the lines onto your fabric. I usually use a mechanical pencil to trace the lines onto the fabric. These lines are thin and will be painted over so they will not be visible when you’re done.

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Step 3: Painting

Put plastic on your table to protect it, then place your garment over it. Paint on the fabric. Don’t make the paint thinner with water, this will create stains. If you want to have a lighter colour, mix with white. Paint slowly, and be careful with thin corners. It is best to paint on several layers (with dark colours usually two, with light colours paint more. This white got over 10 layers of paint). You kind of need a steady hand for this.

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Step 4: Finishing!

Follow the instructions on the bottle of the paint. Normally you fix the paint on your garment by ironing on the back of the fabric. I usually put a kitchen towel in between to protect the iron from the paint and the other way around. When it’s done: Enjoy!

fabricpainting06

Superhero Mask Tutorial

Introduction

Since making a superhero mask fit to your face is something many people want, I’m sharing this tutorial with you. If you have any questions just let me know here, on Facebook or by e-mail. I will show you here how I made my Spider-woman mask.

Photo of my Spider-woman costume by Jeroen Weimar Photography.

spiderwoman

 

Step 1: A paper version

I used my plaster face that I made for B’elanna Torres. You can see how I made it here. You can also do it on your own face if you have someone to help you. First you cover the part of your face where your mask is going to be with kitchen-wrap, and then cover it in paper tape so you can draw on it. If you do this on your own face, make sure to keep your nostrils free. When you’re done making the shape out of paper tape, you can cut out your sample mask. You need this later!

superheromask01

 

Step 2: Making your mask out of Thermoplastic

You can use any type of thermoplastic. I still had Worbla so that is what I used. If you don’t have a plaster-version of your face, you can also do this on your on face if a friend is helping you.

 

Step 2a: Plaster face

When you have a plaster face, it’s easier. You take a large piece of your thermoplastic to make sure the section of your face where your mask is going to be is completely covered. You heat up your thermoplastic with your heatgun and gently place it over the face. Make sure to shape it to your face using your fingers. When it’s cool again, you overlay your paper version and trace the shape onto your thermoplastic mask. You then cut it out with scissors, and your thermoplastic version is done!

 

Step 2b: Your own face

You use your paper version of your mask and trace it out on your thermoplastic. You then cut it out. Put a wet kitchen towel on your face to protect your face from heat. Let your friend heat up the thermoplastic mask and gently place it over your face. Make sure that your friend shapes it to your face while the thermoplastic is still hot. The placing on your face has to be done perfectly. When it’s cool, your mask is done.

superheromask02

 

Step 3: Cover your mask with fabric

I tested several glues to see which ones were best. What you do is you cover your mask in a thin layer of glue, then stretch your spandex over the mask and gently press it onto the glue. When it’s dry you can cut the fabric smaller and fold it back over the edges of your mask. Glue the edges down on the back of your mask. When you’re done, glue a sturdy elastic on the sides so it will stay on your head.

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Step 4: Done!

For Spider-woman I also made eye-goggles with transparent worbla and glued a mesh fabric on it. I can’t really see anything though. 😛 But it looks cool. 😄

We’re done! Because the mask is so tight around my face it kind of hurts while wearing. I put some cotton pads on my forehead to protect against the pain. 😀

superheromask04

Latex prosthetic Cosplay Tutorial

Introduction

Hey guys! I’ve been getting a lot of positive comments about my facial prosthetic for B’elanna Torres. I will briefly explain how I made my facial ridges here. It’s the easiest way to create a latex prosthetic, but definitely not the most beautiful way. It takes quite a few tries of practice to get it right. I made 7 prosthetics before I ended up with the one that I use most often now.

Photo of my B’elanna Torres costume by Vincent Lee Fotografie.

belannavincent

Step 1: Copy your face!

What you need to make a properly fitting prosthetic is a cast of your on face. The cheapest and easiest way to do it is by using plaster cast. This is normally used for broken legs. 😉 I bought mine from an online shop that sells this kind of thing. It was super easy to find and not so expensive. I still have a lot left. 😛

You do need a friend for this one. you cannot do this by yourself. What you do is cover your face in Vaseline or some other greasy cream, and cover your hair with a hairnet and kitchen wrap to protect it. You then close your eyes and let your friend do all the work. What your friend does is make the plaster cast wet in water and put it on your face. Your friend has to make sure that it’s gently pushed against your skin so all the shapes of your face come out well. The only important thing is to keep your nostrils free from plaster or you will suffocate! The plaster dries really quickly, about 15 minutes. When it’s all dry all you have to do is wiggle your facial muscles (frown, smile, things like that) and it will come off very easily.

latexface01

And yes, it’s horror movie material. My boyfriend walked in on us without knowing what we were doing…. Nightmare fuel assured!

 

Step 2: Make a plaster face.

Now that you have your face mask, the next step is to make an actual cast of your face. You rub Vaseline on the inside of your mask (as a releasing agent), and put it firmly in a bowl or tub. I put a lot of kitchen towels under it and at the sides to make sure that it would not move from its place. Then you mix actual plaster with water (I would recommend a little less than on the packaging because my plaster took over a month to completely dry) and fill up your plaster mask with plaster. 😀 Tap the sides to make sure the big bubbles go out of the plaster and make it more even.

When the plaster is dry you can pull it free from the mask. Your mask will be destroyed, but that’s okay. You don’t need it anymore. When you’re completely sure that it is dry, you can sand your face down and cover it in two layers of wood-glue to make the surface smooth.

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This is my un-sanded and un-glued face.

 

Step 3: Making your clay ridges

I bought fatty, waxy clay that does not become solid. However, my cheap clay was a little too soft so I would recommend using a more sturdy one. What you do is you clay your ridges on your face, exactly the way you want them to be. Make sure it is smooth and all edges of the clay blend in to your forehead seamlessly.

latexface03

 

Step 4: Making your Latex prosthetic

I bought liquid latex from Mehron, but any type of liquid latex will do. You use a non-latex sponge (make-up stores have fairly cheap ones, you can not re-use them) and dab very thin layers of latex over your clay. Make sure not to cover your eyes. In this example I did cover my brows because I made fake eye-brows in this prosthetic. I would recommend keeping them above your brows though, because it is more comfortable. Make sure that the edges stay thin enough, or it will be difficult to cover the seams with make-up. Wait for each layer to dry before applying the next. This is a long process. You need to make sure that the latex is thick enough so it won’t cave in when you remove it from your plaster-self. This means many layers.

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Step 5: Finishing the prosthetic

When you have enough layers, cover your prosthetic in any kind of powder with a brush. I used some kind of face powder, really cheap. 😛 Take a pair of tweezers and start at the top of your head. Use the brush and keep putting powder underneath the prosthetic as you slowly and carefully remove it from your plaster face. When it’s finally off, you are nearly done!

To make the ridges more sturdy, dip cotton in latex and fill up the ridges from the back. Wait for it to dry and you’re done!

 

Step 6: Applying it to your face and adding make-up

A fairly logical step. 😛 You can attach it to your face using either liquid latex or skin-glue. I use Mastix, and to remove it Mastix remover. Be careful not to get it in your eyes! All you have to do then is use foundation and many types of shading make-up to make your ridges look beautiful and more realistic. You put darker shades under your ridges and a highlighter on top. This will make them stand out a lot more.

And you’re done!

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Photo by Erwin van Dijk.